Friday, July 10, 2009

Eating in New Orleans: Part Two

There are a lot of places to eat in New Orleans, and even more delicious things to taste.

We did our very best to go to as many places and try as many things as we could.


These are our stories.







Tuesday night (June 30th, 2009) we thought we would try a real “old-line” restaurant. Yes the waiters were in tuxes, yes we had to wear jackets, yes pretty much everything was sauced. But everything WAS good and I constantly felt that a chorus of “Mame” could break out any second. The Place was Galatoire’s and, yes, it’s on Bourbon Street It’s almost the only authentic place left there amid the 20 something bars, the Larry Flynt this and Hustler that. This is the kind of hetero “moral values” with which I can agree.

Galatoire’s has been there since 1905. It’s bright and tiny tiled and the tables are covered in white and the dinnerware is bright white, loud and plentiful. We started with Oysters Rockefeller and Oysters en Brochette. The fist is well known but we’d never had them and decided it was time. The latter was wrapped in bacon, breaded and delicious. Entrees were Trout Amandine for B (butter-toasted almond slivers on trout fillets dusted with flour, sauteed in butter, moistened with a bit of lemon and garnished with parsley) and Crabmeat Sardou for me (hunks of sweet crab atop artichoke hearts with spinach under a blanket of hollandaise sauce) This was accompanied by Potatoes Soufflé. AND for dessert we had, well, we were cut off, or our sweet waiter thought we had eaten as much as we could, or he thought we didn’t want any but we would have tried . . . so Brian sipped black coffee but we would have “tried” the Banana Bread Pudding.


Wednesday morning found us AGAIN at Mother’s this time for the famous “breakfast at Mother’s” I had read about. B got some kind of omelet (I asked him to get grits) and I ordered their ham on a biscuit. Lordy. The ham was thick cut, moist and well, hammy. The biscuit was definitely fresh made; chewy, soft, melting, real delicious. I had to stop myself from coming back here for lunch.


Luckily, for Brian, we didn’t. Lunch took us walking across town to Jackson Square and beyond into the French Market. There lies a famous Italian Market/Grocery/Deli known as Central Grocery and the very, very famed some would say legendary Muffaletta. Something B now describes as “the best sandwich I’ve ever had”. It begins with the bread: Fresh, pure. aromatic, round, squat, Italian, sesame seeded amazement. Then that’s layered with deli: ham, cheese, salami, Then THAT’S topped with a concoction called “olive salad”. Wrapped it paper, eaten at a formica counter with a crowd of fellow muffas” priceless. The place is crowded, noisy, famous, wonderful. Ya gotta!


Yet more stories (and FOOD) to come . . . there is SO much, try as we did, there was still much untasted.


- - - David




Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Eating in New Orleans: Part One

The wait was ALWAYS worth it.
It WAS New Orleans.
This trip was all about the food.

The only things we planned were Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

The chefs, the staff, the food were still there

and this was OUR way to support the community


I landed a little before 5 P.M. last Monday. Brian was at the airport, we jumped in a cab and by 6:30 we had dropped my bags at the W on Chartres St. in the French Quarter and walked to Bayona for dinner.

The postings on facebook had worked. On the back of an envelope I had scribbled our food plan for the week. All the places were suggested by friends, and a few friends of friends, and we were booked solid for breakfast lunch and dinner until Friday. Bayona was the first stop.

An old townhouse had been converted into a white table cloth restaurant. We wobbled out way the few blocks and were met with utter bliss. Although traditional, the dinner was a fresh 2009 take on Creole/French/New Orleans tradition. Apps, Dinner and dessert never stopped amazing us. . . and we ate every bite.

And Good Night.


We made it to the most touristy, but authentic and stop-worthy spot for breakfast. Between the French Market and the base of Jackson Square, right next to the Mississippi levee, Cafe Du Monde. Coffee with Chicory and a plate of freshly fried to order Beignets dowsed with powdered sugar. Heaven. My taste usually runs more to the savory than the sweet Firrst thing in the morning. But these hot doughy sugared pillows took my breath away. The equally word famous beverage, Coffee and Chicory, is the perfect match. Hot, smooth, soft, not bitter, it goes well with the hot pillows. But this is where the “touristy” rears its head, it’s served at the table, in styrofoam. At least the “cup” makes a nice FREE souvenir. (Orange juice, milk, soda and pricier souvenir are available.


For Lunch we left the French Quarter and headed across Canal to Poydras Street and Mother’s, a “blue-collar” “restaurant” where you order at the counter, grab your drink (cold Local beer in the fridge), sit at any available table, and are served by a “strictly no tipping” waiter. The Food is the draw here: 19 Huge Po’ Boy sandwiches on the menu, “regular” items include gumbo, jambalaya, étouffée, red beans and rice, and then there’s daily specials, and lets not forget the ham.

But more on that later. I had a simple fried Oyster Po’boy and Brian had something called Famous Ferdi Special (Ham, Roast Beef, Debris and Gravy Po’ Boy). What is Debris you ask? It’s the beef that falls into the pan while the roast is cooking. I have a feeling it started that way but that some beef must be specially slivered for the purpose now . MY GAWD you should see the line and hear how many people order Debris. Mother’s is out of the Quarter so it’s ONE of the places that were hard hit by Katrina. Evacuated. Closed for weeks. Then rebuilt and sanitized, the parking lot acting as a refuge for the workers and their families.

I may love the food in New Orleans (and I do!) but I love the spirit of survival and of sense of neighborliness more.





Monday, July 6, 2009

Quite the Life (Ma Vie en Le Vieux Carré)

Staying in New Orlean’s French Quarter reminded me of life . . . AND of living

The balcony of our room at the W on Chartres Street (sorry, no cast iron)

We’re back but I seemed to have left a part of me there. Every few minutes my heart and mind turn to the streets of New Orleans. Whether it’s a 17th Century Convent or a 21st Century restaurant, if you come across a grey haired guy with a far away look in his eyes who looks like me, that’s where I am.

Five days isn’t a long time, but it seems like five hundred years. What is so damned special with New Orleans? If you’ve been keeping up with me on facebook, you’ll know my first answer. I’ll start with the food first, and lot’s of it, in my next entry. Soon.



- - - David




Saturday, June 27, 2009

First One And Then The Other

Where the wild things are

going next

(photo from facebook’s New Orleans fan site)




Brian leaves Sunday for a Human Resources Convention in New Orleans. On Monday I fly in (it was cheaper). We’re staying in the French Quarter. We will be in the New Orleans’ Vieux Carré for five days. I have EVERY breakfast, lunch and dinner planned and a few more places to try if we get hungry.


Expect a lot of food shots on my page on facebook (you DO fb DON’T you?)


I feel like I am going to heaven. 9 years in Adrian and months of attempting a healthy diet leaves me MUCH to think about. You can imagine why I am obsessing about FOOD!


Please try to follow us on facebook and on blogger for the next few days, I will try to blog between meals.

http://askdavidstas.blogspot.com/


--- David


Monday, June 15, 2009

At "Work"

Home . . .

. . . like me, a work in progress



Project, project, project. When you live in an old house you get used to the endless nature of the list. Lately, well, since last October, I’ve become this “old house”. Along with the weeding, the planting, the new this and the fix that, I’ve made it to the list. I can avoid it no longer. I too need work and lots of it.

This week along with watching what I consume (no longer allowing myself limitless quantities of whatever), improving my general comportment, getting this so called physique to the “Y”, having various follicles trimmed, I will finally be having a colonoscopy.

Also, in early July, I will finally be going into get my hernia prone torso patched up again (3 done, 3 to go). Yes, the current alien bulge on my stomach will not be allowed to explode into a scurrying dining hall visitor but will be physically forced back to isolation. While in there the doc promises to try and also repair a new 2nd emergence of another newer and smaller stomach protrusion and yet another one “elsewhere”. This time I will be experiencing the ol’ laparoscopic AND the older conventional razor sharp scalpel.

On July 9th, I will be laid up AGAIN while I mend. Best wishes, silent prayer, flowers, cards, small gifts and cookies will AGAIN be happily accepted, but this time at home SWEET home.

This time I promise to recover more quickly.



- - - David





Thursday, June 4, 2009

A bit of a hike

  
The aptly named Wellness Park, Tacheva and Miraleste, Palm Springs
  


Quite a month. An end to the long long winter. A month of blazing white sun and aqua pool oases of Palm Springs. A Beginning. 

M-F, every morning, Miss Rubi, the motelier's driver (OK, Ruby) has driven me and then picked me up at the Stroke Center.  Stationary Bike: 15mins, Arm Pedal: 10 mins, 50 reps on the Crunch machine, 60 on the Leg machine, stretch out on the Pulleys and remember to do the blocked Calf Stretch. Workout total: usually One Hour. Believe it or not: For me that was quite the workout. I pressed myself. I was good for little else that day. (Not that I am usually any good at all for anything, but . . .)

No Tram, no Art Museum, no architectural tours, sometimes dinner, sometimes a card game, always a little ironing. Things were simple. 

Today for the first time I got it in my head to walk to the Stroke Recovery Center.  I was up at 4 something, so I had lots of time for getting dressed, coffee, papers, waiting.  At 8:30, I slipped out and headed south.  I had a hat, sunglasses, drinking water and had googled directions and put the turns into my iPhone.  A bit much?  Yes, but I didn't want to get in any inexcusable trouble.  I could imagine my sister calling me in the hospital. "You did what?" she would say. Brian would be standing one side of the bed, Ruby on the other, no one would be smiling. 

I wanted some insurance that nothing stupid would happen.

Nothing did.  I made it .5 mile down Palm Canyon to Tachevah. I made it another .4 mile to the park. Across the intersection from the Desert Regional Hospital there is "Wellness" Park. 

A new looking, beautifully planted, all ability friendly park with 5 or so exercise stations right up my alley. So I did the circuit, passing on the sit-ups, and was walking like a pre-stroker. Then Ruby called. I'd been found. I had time to snap a few more pictures on my iPhone and walk a few blocks closer to the Center where i said my thankful misty good-byes. I told them what I thought about the fabulous park, that I had done my exercising and that I hoped I'd be back.

I do plan to come back. Lighter, quicker, stronger.  Someday soon I'll be ready for a REAL vacation. 

Wanna come?


- - - David




Saturday, May 30, 2009

Back to the Ironing Board


Exercise Therapy, only available in the mornings from 8:30 until 12:30, leaves the afternoons open. To keep myself occupied and to try and help out Ruby a little with her Coral Sands motelier chores. I will clumsily attempt to do things such as make the beds and clean out various room refrigerators but my specialty is to press the pillowcases. 

When she first asked, I blurted: "I haven't done it since the stroke . . . but I'll try." I didn't have much hope of succeeding. Not only hadn't I done it since THE BRAIN ATTACK but I've never been very good at ironing.

I bellied up to the board, aimed the fan my way, noted that I had a view of the pool from the ironing station in Rube's "Let'er Buck Suite". I warily took hold of the waiting pre-warmed tool (Black & Decker®) and went for it. 

I've been ironing almost every day for three weeks. Left alone to my own devices. I am surprising myself. I am getting self assured. Cocky even. Yesterday, as a test of skill, I spent my day off slowly ironing five of MY OWN shirts. One shirt was linen. Two were rayon. As I slowly pressed, I thought. Though always from a different viewpoint, ironing has seemed a marker in my life.

When I was a kid, before I was in kindergarten, I used to follow my mother around while she did chores. My Pop was at work. My brother was at school. She seamlessly ran the house, on a schedule. Tuesdays were ironing day.  She would stand at the board set up in our small "dining" room, take the clothes she had washed on Monday, had smoothed and rolled up, slightly damp, and iron all day. Before spray-bottles, it was important not to let clean laundry get completely dry. If needed, an old 7-up bottle, filled with water and fitted with a wide perforated cap, stood by. 

I know that it was pre September 1959. I remember she wore (ironed) full skirted pastel house dresses. There was something hypnotic to a toddler in her repetitive sway at the board. The huge, flared, slip filled skirt agitating like the washing machine itself. I recall the vision as it appeared to me, laying on the floor looking up at her ironing. The enveloping, luminescent umbrella-like dress moving back and forth, following a few seconds behind her repetitive twists, the sight and sound of the big softly starched cotton, like a pastel tent in the wind. I remember sadly the day that all ended. My mother thought I was looking up her dress for other reasons not even dreamed of by this fey 4 year old. So it stopped but the ironing went on weekly, until after I was in college.

In college, a lot of my time was spent with the girl I met at 16. We were together for 8 years. In all that time, Gerri must have ironed. But I was young, I ignored that.

After Ger came Michael. A painting painter from New York. In the 5 years together, he never ironed. Clothes came out of drawers wrinkled and splattered with paint. We wore them proudly.

After Michael and my 30th birthday came Dick. Richard was a clothes pony. Hence he always ironed, meticulously, even clothes made out of fabrics I thought could NOT be pressed. He was an artist, both graphically and at the iron. Not only would he do his own wardrobe, he would do mine. He would press the clothes from the famous designers we had found for me at the New York and New Jersey outlets. I looked FABULOUS. I was happy to let him have at it.

At 35, After he left me (for another, well-pressed, guy),  I was in extreme pain PLUS I couldn't iron all the clothes I was left in the divorce. I was alone, I was wrinkled, and not just from crying. A collegue at the magazine I worked at took enough pity on me to offer to teach me how to iron the educated way. She made me promise that I never reveal that the high powered New York business woman she now was had once studied Home Economics in COLLEGE. I never did, sorta. We laughed through her serious lessons. I learned the correct way to do a shirt. It goes like this: Collar/yoke/cuffs/sleeves/the rest. DB taught me to do the back of doubled fabric first, the importance of pulling, what needs to be done up-side-down on a cloth. I listened. Sponge-like, I absorbed. I attempted this alone. I still fumbled.

Soon after, my magazine, the black sheep in a family-values type of publishing company, was sold off to the hipper, more experimental French. Almost everyone was fired, including me. Suddenly I knew how dirty laundry felt. Loveless, jobless, seemingly worthless and rumpled. 

A few months later my sister-in-law needed me in Seattle for a design consult. She called, I went, I moved there. A few weeks later Ruby was installed permanently in my life. Then, after a few years of single (permanent press) living, the bouquet carrying B entered my life.

Brian was a younger, unfettered bachelor. I was fettered, some would say "styled" stylist/writer/freelancer with all the encumberance that would fit in my Queen Anne backyard bungalow. Everything but an ironer.  Eventually I got a real job, Brian got a real car, we got a bigger house, our first Weimaraner, a domestic partnership certificate from city hall. A life together. A new iron. Brian can iron when he wants to but usually chooses to use the dry cleaner. I go right along. I have for 15 years.

Then in October of 2008, Stroke struck. Early this month, after a long, cold, snowy, housebound, ironing free winter, I came here. To Palm Springs, The Stroke Center, The Coral Sands Inn, Ruby, and circuitously back to the ironing board.

Dear Ruby asked and I tried. The first few cases came cautiously easy. Then the Jersey cowboy cases rode in. Ruby rules that ALL pillowcases be pressed. "They just FEEL better". So, for Rube, I struggle, (I may curse, but I keep ironing). Our lovely photographer friend Debra, overlapping my first few days of respite here, came like the cavalry into the room to help me tug, pull and smooth the bunching, creasing, uncooperative fabric decorated with the deceptively grinning cowpokes. Eventually, AND for the last three weeks reappearing, cases calmly get done. I was taught to muddle through. (But for the record, I DON'T LIKE THEM)

In the last three weeks of slow ironing I have had a lot of quiet time to think about my life. I not only considered how lucky I am to be here (in Palm Springs and on this earth), I found that I have had time to gather together what I've learned about this art of ironing from some wise women in my life. 

Among these: Ginka (my mom) taught me craft, Donna taught me the economy of technique, Debra taught me that when the going gets rough, diligence (one of the Seven Holy virtues) will eventually smooth things out and Miss Ruby taught me to keep trying, to never ever give up.

All by myself I learned that falling tears, whether wept due to heartbreak or deep appreciation, will iron right out.

- - - David






Friday, May 22, 2009

Week 2 draws to a conclusion: Let the 3 day weekend begin

   Stroke Recovery Center, Palm Springs, CA   



I know, I know, you are all wondering  HOW I am doing. How do I do it? What AM I doing? 
For all of those enquiring minds, here's the scoop; for the others, run while you still can.

I still get up early, 6 AM at the latest. That means this tired old body is ready for rest just when the other folks at the Coral Sands are getting going, but it also means that I can wobble around in the morn, sight unseen. I might even take off my shirt and go into the pool, a thing I would never inflict upon witnesses. I hear you, but apparently vanity is the last to go, way way after stomach muscles.

I can also be there waiting like a panting dog when Ms Ruby cracks open her doors to let out the fellow canines. I can assure her that I am in no hurry to get going to the Center. I can wait.

Ruby's my saint of a driver. She and her VW, "Dinah", take me the 2.3 miles and pick me up after. So far I have never called a cab (though I did foolishly try to walk back once). I think I'll wear out my welcome first. Don't I always?

Once there I am watched over by two ladies and sometimes a trainer. I usually start on the bike, a machine, fully balanced, on the floor. I foot pedal for 15 minutes then arm peddle for 10 minutes more. I am up to a resistance level of 10. The ladies seem to think that's good, but I think they would tell me it's good even if it were bad. The perfect overseers.

I also do stomach crunches on a machine that lets me do it sitting up, strapped in and never reclining. Instead. I crunch forward. A miracle find of a machine. I can exercise the flab without lying back and up which caused my head to spin so badly once that I am afraid to try it again. So far I've done 50 crunches a day, and no tilt-a-whirl effect.

There are parallel bars  to practice heal to toe walking (in case an officer of the law ever wants to drunk test me). There are pulleys to pull, calf muscles to stretch, a machine to build up my legs with reclined squats, another press to exercise them differently and one to jiggle my Chi. I even saw a "personal trainer" this week who gave me a series of leg and eye exercises to do at home to lessen the wobbles. I am getting into this.

I just may have the nerve to get on a real bicycle soon. (Do they make adult training wheels?)

Someday I may even restart my pleas to Brian to get me a motorcycle. 

I have to do that quickly, while he still feels sorry for me and before I get too much older. Do they have a cut off age for the license?
Even if he balks (and I have a funny feeling he will), I know in my heart that I am already better (even though I still walk like a drunk). Much better than I was 7 months ago

As Brian wrote when he sent the picture of Lucy and me in the hospital wheelchair, "Amazing how far you've come!"

He wasn't referring to the 2,500 mile flight, was he?



- - - David


Sunday, May 17, 2009

oh lucy


bedouin
Originally uploaded by saikiishiki
I miss my grrls (and my man, of course)

- - - David







photo on flickr

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Singing in the dead of night

Looking up from the NYTimes at the Coral Sands


The mockingbird song is always changing,  I am told. The bird doesn't have a singular sound; it mimics the songs of other birds (as well as insects and amphibians, Wikipedia informs me). The mockingbird might do this for devious reasons but it sings beautifully, full-out, exquisitely. 

Wikipedia also relates this birds' place in history. "Charles Darwin noticed that the mockingbirds . . . differed from island to island" . . . "with what he had been told about Galapagos tortoises, could undermine the doctrine of stability . . . "

The mockingbird: inspiration, evolution, natural change put into song. 

Sung to me.

The birdsong is performed every morning, a repeat show at sunset, it's permutations cannot be predicted, not by me.  The sound of change, it is in the air. This "symbolism" has finally sunk in. With a little work, with a little effort, I can not only talk the talk, I WILL walk the walk.

The Coral Sands, taken in by the Ruby, embraced by friends old and new, my Lourdes of the desert, should I be surprised that it's not only a life changing miracle but that it's been put to music by this historic song writer?

My life has become a stupendous musical.

I can dance to it. 

Well, I plan to, soon.


- - -David