Eating in New Orleans: Part One

The wait was ALWAYS worth it.
It WAS New Orleans.
This trip was all about the food.
The only things we planned were Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.
The chefs, the staff, the food were still there
and this was OUR way to support the community

I landed a little before 5 P.M. last Monday. Brian was at the airport, we jumped in a cab and by 6:30 we had dropped my bags at the W on Chartres St. in the French Quarter and walked to Bayona for dinner.

The postings on facebook had worked. On the back of an envelope I had scribbled our food plan for the week. All the places were suggested by friends, and a few friends of friends, and we were booked solid for breakfast lunch and dinner until Friday. Bayona was the first stop.

An old townhouse had been converted into a white table cloth restaurant. We wobbled out way the few blocks and were met with utter bliss. Although traditional, the dinner was a fresh 2009 take on Creole/French/New Orleans tradition. Apps, Dinner and dessert never stopped amazing us. . . and we ate every bite.

And Good Night.

We made it to the most touristy, but authentic and stop-worthy spot for breakfast. Between the French Market and the base of Jackson Square, right next to the Mississippi levee, Cafe Du Monde. Coffee with Chicory and a plate of freshly fried to order Beignets dowsed with powdered sugar. Heaven. My taste usually runs more to the savory than the sweet Firrst thing in the morning. But these hot doughy sugared pillows took my breath away. The equally word famous beverage, Coffee and Chicory, is the perfect match. Hot, smooth, soft, not bitter, it goes well with the hot pillows. But this is where the “touristy” rears its head, it’s served at the table, in styrofoam. At least the “cup” makes a nice FREE souvenir. (Orange juice, milk, soda and pricier souvenir are available.

For Lunch we left the French Quarter and headed across Canal to Poydras Street and Mother’s, a “blue-collar” “restaurant” where you order at the counter, grab your drink (cold Local beer in the fridge), sit at any available table, and are served by a “strictly no tipping” waiter. The Food is the draw here: 19 Huge Po’ Boy sandwiches on the menu, “regular” items include gumbo, jambalaya, étouffée, red beans and rice, and then there’s daily specials, and lets not forget the ham.

But more on that later. I had a simple fried Oyster Po’boy and Brian had something called Famous Ferdi Special (Ham, Roast Beef, Debris and Gravy Po’ Boy). What is Debris you ask? It’s the beef that falls into the pan while the roast is cooking. I have a feeling it started that way but that some beef must be specially slivered for the purpose now . MY GAWD you should see the line and hear how many people order Debris. Mother’s is out of the Quarter so it’s ONE of the places that were hard hit by Katrina. Evacuated. Closed for weeks. Then rebuilt and sanitized, the parking lot acting as a refuge for the workers and their families.

I may love the food in New Orleans (and I do!) but I love the spirit of survival and of sense of neighborliness more.