Showing posts with label The Mother Road. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Mother Road. Show all posts

Friday, September 26, 2008

Route 66 Part Five: The Finale S T R E T C H

All of Route 66 was memorable,
but if I had to pick just one stretch not to miss . . .



If you’ve never been to the Grand Canyon, no words I could conjure would begin to describe it. If you have been, you know that all the pictures you take look dull and flat compared to what the eye takes in. Our short 5 hour tour of the south rim was memorable, I get the feeling that a 5 day tour wouldn’t be long enough. We went, we saw and once again I vowed to return for a real visit, one with burros and a stone lodge.

After the canyon we made out way back down to Williams and on to Seligman, and some authentic Route 66 travel. Seligman is a gateway to an arch of 2 lane pavement that heads up towards western Grand Canyon, leads through small towns and then comes back down to Kingman. After Kingman the real adventure begins. The way to the “ghost town” of Oatman, is a roller coaster, hairpin, Black Mountain joy with deserted desert 2 lane stomach dropping cliffside no guardrail views. My kind of ride. After Oatman things settle down a bit but scenic is still the word as you go downhill into Topock.

Before we left Michigan, doing research on Route 66, I saw a lot of photos from the road. At home, they all seemed so far away, so remote, so different from the views I had from my windows in Adrian. At home I tried hard to imagine what it was going to be like to be on that road and here I was. I was actually there, taking my own photos, the road was real and I could smell the air. I still can, I hope that sense of being there doesn’t fade.

From Topock we jumped on I-40 long enough to cross the Colorado River into California and got off again to drive 66 into Needles. We had a quick lunch at Burger Hut, some excellent tacos, and headed into the Mojave. The desert was whiter, flater, drier and even more desolate. We drove 66 for miles until we reached Najah's Sahara Oasis, in Fenner. Gas was suddenly a dollar more, but there were palm trees and jets of water coming out of a algae green pool.

After Fenner it was only 50 miles to our turn off at Amboy. It was hot and dry and our few stops were quick, jumping back into the air conditioning. There were the ruins of an old rest stop who’s plaque asked you to listen to the silence and imagine crossing the mojave in the 1920’s. There were a few ruins of road stops like the Road Runner, modern flintstone graffit that spread across the berms for miles and at Amboy, Roy’s Diner, Gas and Motel, being renovated by Albert Okura, who owns the Juan Pollo restaurant chain.

Roy’s old owner used to own the town of Amboy, which isn’t much more than Roy’s and now Okura does too. The renovation had been going on for awhile and there’s no end in sight just yet, I hope that there will be a there there someday.

We turned off Route 66 at Roy’s in Amboy, but we weren’t “home” yet. We drove across the dry lake beds, through the Sheep Hole Mountains and into Twentynine Palms. From there we took the road past the orgy of windmills and into the Coachella Valley. Then it wasn’t far to the Coral Sands Inn and the welcoming arms of our minister, motelier and friend, Ruby Z. Montana.

Now that was an oasis we could be happy to see. No mirage, no high gas prices, a cool deep pool with no algae and the beers were cold and waiting.

Ruby, in red, scurried to meet us at the gate of the Coral Sands Inn

blogger users: click on the photos to see them BIG!




Monday, September 22, 2008

Route 66 Part Three: Onto the Great Plain

Half way point:
Sunday August 31st, 2008
Texas


On Saturday night, the moment we got into the car at the Oklahoma City National Memorial, the skies opened. It was a deluge, a can’t see out the windows, driving on the crest of the road, black night deluge. The 30 miles to El Reno took us a bit longer. Brian’s iPhone suggested we take the InterState but I reasoned we should take Route 66, even if we couldn’t really see it. (we DID see a bit of neon before we got out of the city!).

Sunday morning, August 31st, dawned bright, blue and promising. We were in El Reno, revered birth place of Ruby Z. Montana, our friend and the woman scheduled to marry us the following Sunday morn. Brian had researched Road Food and learned that El Reno was infamous for something called an Onion Burger and he was determined to find one for breakfast. What my fiancĂ© was realizing was that it was Sunday morning and though the cafes were famous for serving up this griddle fried wonder starting at 6 AM, they would all be closed. Fry cooks need to go to church too. One after another we drove slowly by the burger stops, Robert’s, Johnnie’s, Jobe’s and Sid’s, all were dark. In the quiet of a Sunday morn people were startled awake by the sound of Brian’s dreams shattering.

Spirits lifted a little once we got on the road, (after a sorry stop at a Sonic Drive-In), and we had a glimpse of the Great Plains. Rainfall had left the soil bright red and the grass deep green, and we were back on the two lane pristine portland cement of Route 66. We blared our theme song on the radio and headed for Texola.

The road architecture continued to amaze us. In Texola we found a hundred year old Territorial Jail where ne’er-do-wells were locked up together in the stone building. The door and windows were open to the August heat and the January cold. Miscreants were not coddled back in the day.


A few minutes later we were in Texas. Shamrock held a vintage Conoco and a restored Magnolia service station. In McLean we visited The Devil’s Rope Barbed Wire Museum, where docent Anita Sealy followed us around to make sure we signed the guest book. The place was a hoot, and I was amazed at the collection, the displays AND the Gift Shop.



After McLean we headed to Amarillo where we had Sunday supper at Dyer’s, again guided by Road Food. Another hour of awe inspiring scenic driving on 66 got us to Adrian, YES, Adrian, Texas, the Route 66 midpoint between Chicago and Los Angeles. Again, disappointment for Brian, the famous MidPoint Cafe, home of the Ugly Crust Pie was closed for the day. But there was a big sign and a photo op then we bravely . . . if pielessly, drove on.


We made it to the Texas/New Mexico border by 5:15, crossed a time line and it was 4:15. It wasn’t far to Tucumcari and the vintage Safari Motel right on Route 66, dinner at the Pow Wow Lizard Lounge and the end of our third day on the road.

I felt as if I had left Adrian, MICHIGAN, far far behind.

- - - David



Friday, August 29, 2008

Stay Tuned for Route 66 Updates

We will be attempting to post from the Road, so check back.
OR sign up for email updates, you can always cancel it later.

- - - David

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

The Best Laid plan of Dogs and Men

There’s a lot of driving ahead, and we WILL be traveling with two Weimaraners.
So why am I getting so excited?
This is the road we’ll be on Wednesday morning.


It’s taken a lot of online searching and a few phone calls, but our plans are laid. We’re leaving on Friday morning and we hope to pull into the Coral Sands on Wednesday evening, just in time for cocktail hour by the pool.

If you want to follow us on GoogleEarth here are our “plans”.

Friday, August 29th.

Adrian to Fort Wayne IN to Indianapolis to Terra Haute to St Louis MO where we pick up Route 66 to Cuba Mo.

estimated time on the road: 9 hours plus


Saturday, August 30th

Cuba to Springfield MO through a little corner of Kansas to Tulsa OK to Oklahoma City and the National Memorial to El Reno, birthplace of Ruby Montana

estimated time on the road: 9 hours plus



Sunday, August 31st

El Reno to Ek City OK to Amarillo TX to Tucumcari, NM and the Motel Safari

estimated time on the road: 7 hours plus


Monday, September 1st

Tucumari to Santa Rosa to Santa Fe to Albuguerque to Grants to Gallup NM

estimated drive time: 7 hours plus (with a possible excursion to Taos not included)

Tuesday, September 2nd

Gallup to Flagstaff to Valle to the Grand Canyon. The Grand Canyon to Williams to Seligman and the Deluxe Inn Motel

estimated drive time: 6 hours plus (with a possible 60 mile scenic drive around the Grand Canyon not included)

Wednesday, September 3rd

Seligman up to Peach Springs to Kingman to Oatman (see top photo) to Topock to Needles CA to Arrowhead Junction to Amboy (where we leave Route 66) to Twentynine Palms to Yucca Valley to Palm Springs and Ruby Montana’s Coral Sands Inn, just in time for cocktail hour.

estimated drive time: 7 hours plus, stops for awe not included.

Well, that’s the plan anyway.

I hope to be posting photos on the blogger site from the road, web access permitting. And I need to tell you about our plans for the road back home.

- - - David

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Going Astray

The best laid plans often go astray,
but how often is that the plan in the first place?

This eloping interloper has to give it a try.


I’ve researched the Ol’ 66 on Wikipedia and on the Routes many fan sites. I’ve mapped countless itineraries on AAA’s site, which isn’t easy considering I have to continuously drag the route line off the interstate and onto Route 66. I’ve spent hours exploring the websites dedicated to the historic road and more hours lurking on the Flickr photo collections. I have to keep reminding myself that we’re going to California to get married, but getting there will be half the fun.

I’ve crossed the country by car so many times I’ve lost count. The trip is always memorable. In college Gerri and I drove out with the Fish (ask me about Winslow, Arizona). I did it again with the Schneak in his MG convertible, (ask me about just missing the Semi near Yellowstone). I’ve done it solo when I moved out to LA, and then 9 months later when I moved back. I’ve done it in a Ryder truck with Aniol when I moved to Seattle (ohh, the scenic hairpin turns through the Badlands). In 2000, Brian and I caravanned back with three animals and two cars when we moved back to Michigan. (Aniol and Sophie got to see the Mt. Rushmore in the dawn’s early light).

This time I want to follow a different path. How can I resist what John Steinbeck proclaimed The Mother Road? It points in the right direction, and we’ll even be able to hit some hot spots like Santa Fe and the Grand Canyon, which Brian has never seen. Ruby tells me there's great pawnshops and antique stores in Gallup. Best of all it will be entertaining even before we get to St. Louis. Route 66 has many fans including Americans trying to save the old motels, diners and amusements, and Europeans and the Asians wanting to experience the Americana that still had flavor. Me, I want to avoid the endless sameness that the interstate offers.

I ordered a set of maps and a guide book off Amazon and they just came in. The weekend will be filled with more dreaming and planning and I just may let Brian see where I am taking him.

This route will take more time, it will take us a little off the beaten track, and it will probably involve a few nights in questionable but dog-friendly motels.

But it will be an adventure.


- - - David